Moving a fish tank is one of the most stressful parts of any home relocation — and it’s almost always underestimated. A 75-gallon tank can weigh over 800 lbs when full. Your fish are living animals that react badly to temperature swings, water chemistry changes, and rough handling. And the tank itself is surprisingly fragile once drained, especially the silicone seams.
This guide walks you through the full process: what to do the week before, how to safely drain and pack everything, how to transport your fish, and how to get the tank up and running again at the new house.
Important: Never move a fish tank with water in it. The weight and movement will stress the seams and risk cracking the glass. Even a small aquarium should be drained before transport.
Step 1: Start Preparing One Week Before the Move
Fish tank moves require more lead time than most people expect. Start preparing at least five to seven days before moving day.
- Stop adding new fish — your tank’s ecosystem needs to be stable going into the move
- Reduce feeding slightly in the days before the move — fish produce less waste, which helps keep transport water clean
- Gather your supplies: food-grade buckets with lids (5-gallon buckets work well), battery-powered air pumps, fish bags, a thermal cooler or insulated bag for the fish, and a siphon or submersible pump for draining
- Do a water test — you want your tank parameters in good shape before the stress of the move
- Arrange with your mover for fish tank handling — not every moving company is equipped for this
Ardie’s Movers is one of the few companies in the Ottawa Valley equipped and experienced with aquarium relocations. See our Fish Tank Moving service for details.
Step 2: The Day Before — Collect Tank Water
This step is often missed, and it’s one of the most important. Your fish are adapted to the specific chemistry of your tank water. Saving your existing tank water reduces stress on your fish significantly.
- Use clean, food-grade buckets to collect 40 to 60 percent of your tank water — this becomes the holding water for your fish during transport and the restart water at the new house
- Label these buckets clearly: “TANK WATER — DO NOT DISCARD”
- Keep the buckets somewhere they won’t be accidentally loaded onto the truck
Tip: A battery-powered air pump dropped into the holding bucket will keep the water oxygenated during the move. These are inexpensive and available at any pet store in Ottawa or Arnprior.
Step 3: Bag and Transport Your Fish
Fish should be the last thing removed from the tank before the move — and the first thing set up at the new location.
For Short Moves (Under 2 Hours)
Fish can be transported in lidded five-gallon buckets filled one-third with tank water and oxygenated with a battery-powered air pump. Keep the bucket in the climate-controlled cabin of your vehicle — not in the moving truck.
For Longer Moves or Sensitive Species
Use sealed, oxygen-filled fish bags — the same bags your local fish store uses when you buy fish. Double-bag each grouping, inflate with pure oxygen, and place inside a styrofoam-lined cooler to maintain temperature. Keep tropical fish above 24°C (75°F) throughout.
Grouping Your Fish
- Separate aggressive species — do not bag fish that will fight each other
- Keep larger fish in their own containers — they use more oxygen
- Limit the number of fish per bag or bucket — overcrowding depletes oxygen quickly
- Keep lights off and minimize disturbance during transport — darkness reduces fish stress
Temperature warning: In Ottawa Valley winters, even a 10-minute car ride without heat can be dangerous for tropical fish. Keep fish containers in a heated vehicle and never leave them in a cold car while you unload furniture.
Step 4: Drain and Break Down the Tank
Once your fish are safely in their temporary containers, you can drain and disassemble the tank.
Substrate (Gravel / Sand)
You can leave substrate in the tank for short local moves — the beneficial bacteria living in the substrate are valuable and hard to re-establish. For longer moves, remove the substrate into buckets with some tank water to keep the bacteria alive. Never rinse substrate in tap water during a move.
Decorations and Live Plants
- Remove decorations and place them in buckets with tank water — do not let them dry out
- Live plants can be wrapped in damp newspaper or kept submerged in a bucket during transport
- Label each bucket with what’s inside and which tank it belongs to if you have multiple tanks
Filters and Equipment
Your filter media — the sponges, ceramic rings, and bio-balls inside your filter — contain the beneficial bacteria that keep your tank healthy. These must be kept wet at all times during the move.
- Remove filter media and place it in a bucket of tank water — do not let it dry out even for a few minutes
- The filter housing itself can be rinsed and packed separately once the media is removed
- Pack heaters, powerheads, and lighting carefully — these are fragile and expensive to replace
- Coil equipment cords and bag them separately with their power adapters
The Tank Itself
Once completely drained, the empty tank can be moved. Even an empty glass tank is heavier and more fragile than it looks:
- Never stand a glass tank on its end — always keep it flat and upright
- Pad the inside corners with folded moving blankets
- Two people minimum for tanks over 30 gallons — do not attempt a solo carry
- Acrylic tanks scratch easily — use felt-lined padding against acrylic surfaces
Step 5: Reassembly at the New House
Set up the tank before anything else at the new location. Your fish’s temporary housing is running low on time.
- Position and level the tank stand first — correct levelling cannot be done easily once the tank is full
- Place the tank on the stand and do a quick visual inspection of the seams and bottom glass
- Return substrate to the tank
- Add the saved tank water back in first, then top up with fresh treated water if needed
- Reinstall filter media, heater, and powerheads — get the filter running immediately
- Allow the heater 30 to 60 minutes to bring the water up to temperature before adding fish
- Float the fish bags or buckets in the tank for 15 to 20 minutes to equalize temperature, then slowly introduce the fish
- Do not feed fish on moving day — wait 24 hours and monitor behaviour closely
Tip: Test your water parameters 24 hours after the move. Ammonia and nitrite spikes are common after a tank move. Have an ammonia detoxifier like Seachem Prime on hand just in case.
What NOT to Do When Moving a Fish Tank
- Do NOT move the tank with water in it — the weight and movement stress the silicone and risk cracking the glass
- Do NOT let filter media dry out — beneficial bacteria die within minutes without water
- Do NOT transport fish in the moving truck — temperature fluctuations are extreme and dangerous
- Do NOT rinse substrate or decorations in tap water — chlorine kills beneficial bacteria
- Do NOT use hot tap water to top up the tank — temperature shock can kill fish instantly
- Do NOT rush the temperature acclimatization — 15 to 20 minutes floating before release is a minimum
Professional Fish Tank Moving in Ottawa Valley
Moving a fish tank yourself is entirely possible for smaller aquariums with some planning. But for larger tanks — 75 gallons and up — or tanks with rare or expensive fish, working with professional movers who understand aquarium handling significantly reduces risk.
Ardie’s Movers is one of the few moving companies in Renfrew County and the Ottawa Valley equipped and experienced with fish tank relocations. We handle the physical move of the tank, stand, and equipment, and work alongside the aquarium owner to ensure the fish are handled to their preferences.
Learn more about our Fish Tank Moving service, or see our full Residential Moving services if you’re planning a complete home move.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you move a fish tank with water in it?
No. You should never move a fish tank with water in it. A full tank is extremely heavy — a 75-gallon tank weighs over 800 lbs — and the movement during transport puts stress on the silicone seams that can cause leaks or cracking. Always drain the tank completely before moving.
How do you transport fish when moving house?
For short moves under two hours, fish can travel in lidded five-gallon buckets filled one-third with existing tank water, oxygenated with a battery-powered air pump. For longer moves or sensitive species, sealed oxygen-filled fish bags inside a temperature-insulated cooler are recommended. Always transport fish in the heated cabin of a vehicle — never in the moving truck.
How long can fish survive in a bucket during a move?
With proper oxygenation from a battery-powered air pump, most freshwater fish can safely survive 6 to 12 hours in a transport bucket. The main risks are oxygen depletion, temperature swings, and ammonia buildup. Keeping the bucket in a temperature-stable environment and limiting the number of fish per container extends safe transport time.
What happens to the good bacteria when I move my fish tank?
The beneficial bacteria that process fish waste live primarily in your filter media and substrate. If filter media dries out even briefly, most bacteria die — which can cause an ammonia spike when the tank is restarted. Keep filter media submerged in tank water throughout the move and monitor ammonia levels for the first week after the move.
Do I need a professional mover for my fish tank?
For smaller tanks (under 40 gallons), a careful DIY move is reasonable with proper planning. For larger tanks — especially those over 75 gallons, tanks with expensive livestock, or reef aquariums — professional fish tank movers significantly reduce risk. Ardie’s Movers serves Ottawa Valley and handles fish tank moves in Arnprior, Ottawa, Renfrew County, and surrounding areas. Call 343-353-9900 for a free estimate.
Moving your aquarium in Ottawa Valley?
Call: 343-353-9900
ardiesmovers.com/fish-tank-moving
Serving Arnprior, Ottawa, Renfrew County & surrounding communities
Published by the team at Ardie’s Movers, Arnprior, Ontario